Those who were looking to get away from the restlessness of the city certainly got more than they bargained for with Korea Sparkling’s second ‘Look In Every Nook and Corner’ food tour. Braving the chilly December winds, the group was guided through a network of cozy little remote culinary hideaways tucked away along Gangwon-do’s east coast, where they comfortably prepared and sampled a host of traditional delicacies ranging from savory homemade tofu and fresh fish to green tea and rice cake soup, Korea’s flavorful New Year’s dish. Each passing visit proved insightful as histories and experiences were shared in the warm, friendly manner of local hospitality – beaming smiles and gentle guidance. Keeping very much in tune with October’s successful Jeolla-do Flavor Tour, the event proved to be as equally rewarding and many came away from the two-day weekend feeling as though they had been traveling for weeks because of all the ground they covered and sights they were able to soak in. Both well organized and highly memorable, the journey east really enlightened everyone on board, lifting the lid to arguably some of Korea’s best-kept culinary secrets and hidden treasures.
Gangwon-do truly is full of natural attractions. The mountains of Seorak and Chiaksan are must sees for visitors and the region boasts some of the country’s finest beaches and cleanest coastlines. Due to the heavy snowfall the province receives, there are countless ski resorts for enthusiasts to choose from. Flanked by the sea and towering cliffs, the scenic seasonal variations are simply unparalleled. On the comfortable bus ride out, as I sat marveling at the sheer beauty of what rolled out in front of me, I couldn’t think of anywhere else I had been in Korea that held my attention for so long. The first stop brought us to the Institute of Traditional Korean Cuisine in Pyeongchang-gun just as a light snow began to fall. Bordered by beautiful distant peaks that loomed solemnly in the distance, we first took notice of a series of wooden architectural structures sitting peacefully on the sprawling open valley expanse before us. As the group walked around, the institute’s director, Jo Jeong-Gang, a reputable authority of Korean traditional food, informed everyone about the many cultural signposts dotting the premises. The facility serves as a home to traditional Korean houses known as ga-oks, jar stands called jangdokdae that are used extensively for preserving food, and an ice storage house, referred to as seokbinggo, where dozens of kimchi pots are kept cool in what looks almost like a wine cellar. Once we slowly became more acquainted with our surroundings, we were led into a large dining hall replete with oblong sturdy cutting boards and large bay windows. After donning our aprons, everyone was taken through the steps of cutting rice cakes, folding mandu and preparing duk mandu guk, a tasty, ceremonial Korean soup. Our hostess, a smiling and very endearing elderly Korean woman, was both gracious and patient with the group. There was plenty of food to go around and a handful of us were even offered a generous helping of bi bimbap that had been prepared beforehand. Of considerable note was the freshness of our meal – all the ingredients were grown on site and it really added to the overall dining experience.
A candidate city for the 2014 Winter Olympics, Pyeongchang is famous for such harmonious hideaways as Geumdang Valley, Palseokjeong Pavillion and Maeji Waterfall. Mt. Odaesan is also exceptionally beautiful, especially the fir-tree path leading through Woljeongsa Temple Valley. The county also hosts many local festivals such as the Daegwallyeong Snow Flower Festival and the Wild Edible Greens Festival. On many levels, it was ideal spot for us to get a taste of what was to come.
Before we were to check in to our accommodations on Mangsang Beach, we were all told that we had an hour or two of free time to spare. A short thirty-minute ride away was Phoenix Ski Resort and the group spent an hour and half hitting the slopes. The temperature had dropped considerably from before and some of us had to grab some extra winter gear at the shops indoors. Naturally no one brought along skis, so we settled for sleds and it was not so long afterwards that a large group of us retired to the ski lounge and shared a few stories while nursing a cup of hot chocolate. It was nice leisure activity and really worked up our appetites up for the large, four-course seafood dinner that was to soon follow.
Scattered along Monagang’s 1.4-kilometer white sand beach in the northeastern region of Gangwon-do’s Donghae City is a string of modest condominiums equipped with traditional heated ondol flooring. Flanked by a pine tree forest, the beach itself is extremely popular for both families and couples throughout the year and the area features a variety of foods including blue crabs, clams, sea squirts and flounders. We all checked in and a quick hour later were whisked off to a cozy seaside restaurant not too far away. It must be said that anyone not aware of the capacity in which Koreans are used to eating was certainly in for a rude awakening that evening! In fact, a great number of us were ready to retire after the first course that consisted primarily of appetizers. Highlights included sashimi, ssam, lettuce used for wrapping both fish
and rice; japgokbap, steamed rice and various other grains; and ojinga sundae, squid stuffed
with seasoned paste. The fourth course was traditional seafood soup and proved somewhat spicy. Regardless, our table didn’t seem to mind but a few of us were far too full to eat any more
than a few spoonfuls. Traditionally, mae eun tang, or seafood soup, is served last. The idea behind this procedure is that it gives guests a chance to savor the culmination of the evening’s variety of dishes. Essentially, everything left over is poured into a pot and left to simmer before being brought out to the table. The level of spiciness can be measured according to the wishes of those relishing it.
Jeongdongjin Beach runs flush along a railway east of Hanyang’s Gwangwhamun from the Joseon Dynasty, a quaint fishing village with a population of roughly a thousand people. The train station is in the Guinness Book of Records as being the closest station to the sea. A tall, imposing pine tree greets visitors as they get off the train. On the other side of the station, there’s a small alley with a hiking trail leading up to Mt. Goseongsan. Wooden steps lead all the way to the top where viewers can get a bird’s eye view of Jeongdongjin Station, the village and the vast blue expanse of the sea. One get always glimpse spectacular views from the nearby Haslla Art World. A huge art garden created by a host of artists, the somewhat eccentric hillside park consists of varying themes including a “Pine Tree Garden”, “Ocean Garden” and “Leisure Garden”. The establishment was created primarily for the preservation of the surrounding nature, so much so that both the height and gradient of the mountainside were utilized in such a way to ensure that the path weaving upward to the entrance resonates with its beauty seamlessly. As we strolled through the grounds, the far-reaching views were breathtaking. Before we boarded the bus for Gangneung’s Seogyojang House, we all tried our hands at carving Chinttobaegi, a prayer pole believed to guard the safety of individuals. Koreans consider birds to be an object of considerable worship – spiritual beings in which the ways of religion may come and go freely, without any restraint. The group carved wooden birds in the style of their choosing and was told that the long pole lifting up the bird symbolized a path to the heavens above and the earth below.
A former upper class residence of the Naebeon Lee (1703~1781) noble family of Gangneung, Seongyojang opened the eyes of the group to dado, the traditional way of green tea. Everyone was given a custom fitted hanbok, traditional Korean clothing, and were guided through the royal manners of drinking tea. Adhering to the strict procedures of cultural etiquette, the setting was inspiring and quite calming. Designated national treasure No. 5, the grounds of Seongyojang are tranquil and of particular mention should go to the incredible Yeolhwadang.
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Considered the most important structure on the premises, this is where the male owner of the property resided. The structure is surrounding by a wonderfully picturesque lotus pond.
The towering, 1,000-meter high Taebaeksanmaek mountain range runs north to south, dividing the province of Gangwon-do in half. To the east is the region of Yeongdong, or Gwandong region and to the west is the region of Yeongseo. Due to their varying climate and geographical features, the two regions differ greatly in culinary offerings. The coastal region of Yeongdong offers an abundance of seafood such as hoe, or raw fish strips, and is either steamed, grilled, or stir-fried. Naturally, fish is widely used as we all experienced on our first evening. However, the higher, hillside areas of Yeongseo, a variety of vegetables including radish, Chinese cabbage, carrot, celery and seed potatoes are prevalent as temperatures are more ideal. Boasting mainly high mountains and deep valleys, the Yeongseo region dry farming products such as potatoes, corn, wheat and barley are widely used as staple foods. With this in mind, as the group retreated from the coastline, moving more inland on the journey home, our last stop was in Chodang Sundudbu Village. Known for its famous watery tofu, or sundubu in Korea, we were treated to a hearty lunch.
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The winding road leading to the restaurant is apparently home to the very beans that are ground up using salt water from the East Sea to help congeal it giving it its soft and light texture. The name of the village originates from the name of the famous family, Chodang-Heoyeop, which once lived there. A traditional-style Korean house has been reconstructed on the site where the original house of the family once stood.
As we all huddled up for the group photo at the end of the trip, it was comforting to know much we all got to know one another a little better and how we were able share some fond memories of a country that remains as much a mystery to newcomers as it does to veterans who have been here a while longer. Korea really is a nation of hidden treasures, and it’s adventures such as this one where we really get to unravel a little more of the enigma while getting up close and personal to witness cultural attractions first-hand on a much more intimate level.
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